Follow me on: 
 
Follow us on Facebook Twitter Feed RSS Feed RSS Feed

EXPERIENCE

I first came to Chamonix and climbed Mont Blanc with a group of school friends aged 17. I immediately fell in love with the Alps and since then have climbed around the world.

In 2003 I decided to give up my military career and begin training as a professional Mountain Guide. Since then I’ve never looked back. The mountains are my passion, my life and my home.

Just a few personal climbing achievements are listed below:

Himalayas - Mount Everest (8850m), Pokalde (three times), Island Peak (twice), Mera Peak, and Lobuje East. In India attempted a first ascent of Peak 6184 in Himachal Pradesh (unsuccessful).

Alps - Completed well over 100 Alpine routes. Numerous ED grade test pieces including: North Face of the Eiger, North Face of the Matterhorn, North East Spur of Les Droites in winter, North Face of Les Droites (Ginat) - solo, North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Croz Spur) North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (The Shroud), North Face of the Droites (Colton Brooks) in winter, North Face of the Droites (Axt Gross), North Face of the Piz Badile (Cassin route), North Face of the Aiguille Talefre, Grande Rocheuse (Bettembourg Route) Grand Capucin (Swiss Route) Peutery Ridge Integrale North Face of Cima Grande (Comici route) West face of Petite Jorasses

Scotland - Too many winter routes to count, up to grade VII. New routes at grade VI. Solo ascents of Point Five Gully (V,5) and Smith's Route (V,5).

Alaska - Three expeditions including ascents of Mount Foraker (3rd highest peak in US), Mount McKinley (Highest peak in US) and Mount Bona (4th highest peak in US)

Yosemite - My first aid climbing experience which culminated in an ascent of the world famous “Nose” of El Capitan

South Georgia (Antarctica) - A combined sailing and climbing trip where we sailed a yacht from the Falkland Islands across the Southern Ocean to South Georgia before then making two first ascents of mountains on the island. These included Mount Roots which at the time was the highest unclimbed peak in British territory and had been previously attempted by numerous teams

Bhutan - Remote trekking in this unspoiled Himalayan Paradise

Kenya - Guided two inexperienced climbers up the “North Face Standard” Route on Mount Kenya

Morocco - A successful ascent of the 2nd highest mountain in the Atlas on a 5 day return trip from UK

Greenland - Exploratory mountaineering in the remote Liverpool Land Peninsula. Numerous 1st and 2nd ascents

Briitsh Mountain Guides Committee - I am currently a committee member for the Association of British Mountain Guides. As Equipment Officer for the Association I am responsible for equipment testing and advice, trade deals, and the sponsorship programme.


To see photos of some of the above go the Gallery







Contact email: info@stuartmacdonald.org