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Monte Rosa 4000s

The Monte Rosa Massif straddles the border of Italy and Switzerland and dominates the area. Huge glaciers and 4000m peaks are very much the hallmarks of this area. Although massive, most of the peaks are not very technical. With good weather and conditions, and under the watchful eye of a professional Mountain Guide you should be able to tick off numerous giants. In addition to big mountains this area is known for the exceptionally friendly mountain refuges, the quality of their meals, and the lovely local wine. If nice people, great food, quality wine and high mountains doesn't sound like the ingredients for a good trip then what does ?

A typical itinerary:

Day 1 – Your trip will start with a briefing at 6pm at your accommodation in Chamonix. You will be notified of the location of this nearer the time. We will discuss the week ahead and answer any questions you may have before checking/issuing equipment.

Day 2 – This will be an acclimatisation day in or near Chamonix. Ideally we will get above 3000m altitude, possibly using the Aiguille du Midi lift, the Skyway lift, or the Grand Montet lift. The aim will be to complete a glacial trek or an easy peak in the area, test all of our equipment, and then stay overnight in a mountain refuge.

Day 3. After breakfast you will be driven through the Mont Blanc tunnel into Italy, arriving in Staffal near Gressonney after around 2hrs. You will then take the chair lift up to the Colle Bettaforca and walk to the Refugio Quintino Sella (3585m) (3hrs30). If you're still feeling good, and conditions allow, then in the afternoon you can climb Castor (4220m) and thus tick off your first 4000m peak of the trip. The summit is a special place, with fantastic views of the surrounding 4000m peaks and all the way down to Zermatt.

Day 4 - Refugio Quintino Sella to Gnifetti Hut – This day is begun with a long glacial hike beneath Lyskamm (4272m) towards the Passo del Nasso. This is potentially serious terrain and will only be undertaken if snow conditions are good (ie not icy). After the Passo there will be the option to ascend the Balmenhorn (4167m), Schwarzhorn (4321m) or Pyramid Vincent (4215m) before heading down to the Rifugio Gnifetti (3647m) or the Rifugio Mantova (just below the Gnifetti).

Day 5 - From the Gnifetti Hut we have a choice of 4000m peaks to climb before heading back to the refuge for a second night. Likely objectives are Balmenhorn, Schwarzhorn, Pyramid Vincent or Ludwigshohe (4343m).

Day 6 - Gnifetti Hut to Zumsteinspitz (4563m) requires an early start ! On the way back you may visit the Margherita Hut which is built on the summit of the Signalkuppe (4554m). This is the highest manned refuge in the Alps. After that you will head back down the glacier to the Rifugio Gnifetti where you can collect your things before carrying on down to the Indren lift which will eventually carry us all the way back to Stafal. From Stafal we will drive back to Chamonix for a well earned shower and your final night in a hotel.

Day 7 - Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure. It is recommended that flights be booked for around lunchtime to avoid needing an early departure.



Dates, Prices & Availability

Dates and Prices on application.

Please contact me at info@stuartmacdonald.org for more details.

  • Duration:
    5 mountain days
  • Venue:
    France/Italy/Switzerland
  • Ratios:
    1:3
  • Experience Required:

    No previous high mountain experience is required, but previous experience on crampons is needed. Ideally you will have climbed Alpine Peaks graded PD, or climbed grade I in Scotland. You must be physically fit and capable of 8 hour days in the high mountains.
  • Information Sheet:

    Monte Rosa 4000s - Information Folder